Ethically speaking, I feel I must get this out of the way whenever it comes to reviewing something: this post is not sponsored, and is a simple reflection of my own subjective experience.
Today’s reflection is also special in the sense that my thoughts do not matter as much. They are somewhat redundant for the simple reason that I am talking about the world’s best olive oil. Almazaras Rincón de la Subbética has been wearing this crown for the fourth consecutive year in all categories of the WBOO 21/22 ranking:
- World’s best AOVE/World’s Best Olive Oils
- World’s best Organic Olive Oils
- World’s Best Olive Oil Mills
- World’s Best Organic Olive Oil Mills
In 2021, it obtained 55 awards, and since 2004, the number of awards is a staggering 600. You can find ample information on the web on this fabulous product, which quite deservedly holds the “palme” de la meilleure huile d’olive du monde (French pun intended). The olives are mechanically cold pressed within 24 hours after harvest, and, naturally, the product is organic.
I have had the honour of sampling it and owning a bottle thanks to none other than Markman. As I said in my previous post, Mr. Zuberr is not only about fantastic knives, but also very much about fine dining. Having this kind of product available in Mauritius is quite something in itself. My first encounter with the oil was when I picked up my Damascus santoku knife. And at that time, Mr. Zuberr had not started to import the olive oil yet; it was a bit of a period of testing the waters.
The bottle itself is a beauty in terms of design. The dark amber color is not only aesthetically pleasing but serves an eminently important purpose: that of blocking UV light which oxidises oil. Functionally speaking, the bottle neck has a plastic piece which limits the flow, which is nifty because this kind of oil is precious, both in quality and price. Yes, at 1350 MUR, it is not cheap. It is not something that will be found in supermarkets. The immediate reaction would be that it is meant for connoisseurs. Perhaps. But it is much more than that.
A few drops of the olive oil on a teaspoon and it felt like a gentle punch right up the nostrils. I had never smelled (or tasted, see further) something like this. It felt like I was breathing the whole olive forest; the olfactory experience was tantalising and comforting at the same time. I could smell the trees, their story, their generosity. And the taste was as unique as the aroma; the greenness of each fresh olive burst through every drop and lingered on the tongue in a way that gave a succession of woody undertones, fruity notes and a mildly zesty, citrusy aftertaste. A whole experience in a drop.
I purchased my bottle a few weeks later and I know I will sound like captain obvious with the following statement. One thing that must absolutely NOT be done with this olive oil is to subject it to heat..or..*gasp* to cook with it! As such, despite its popularity in cooking shows, olive oil is not best suited for cooking. It has a low smoke point, meaning that it can burn easily. The best way to enjoy Rincón de la Subbética is on a teaspoon, on its own. It’s the proper way to travel through the senses. Of course, it can be enjoyed in other preparations as well. What I like is to take a slice of crusty bread, toast it and drizzle some oil on top. The bread provides a proper medium, a vector of sorts to prolong the tasting experience. Likewise, you can take fresh tomatoes, a sprinkle of salt, a dash of basil and bring all of them together by this oil. If you can find some fresh Mozarella di buffala, you gift yourself with the perfect bruschetta topping (on good bread of course). It’s also perfect as part of a salad dressing. However, care must be exercised here so as not to dilute the delicate flavour of the oil. Aromatically strong ingredients and herbs, if improperly dosed, can easily overpower the rest of the ingredients. Lemon juice, in limited quantities or rice vinegar are a good acidic pairing for the oil. Fresh herbs like basil, or a little grating of lemon zest work really well too. Of course, this oil would also elevate any hummus or mediterranean dip.
At any rate, and as it must be clear from what I wrote, Rincón de la Subbética is hands down the best oil I have tasted. Its powerful purity encapsulates the soul of the olive tree, in a way that is an ode to the life that runs through the olive forest. The artisans who care for the trees and produce this kind of marvel honour the essence of what the best olive oil should be. The multiple awards are more than deserved and each bottle is definitely worth every cent. This oil is not just oil; it is a whole culinary experience in itself. Even though the whole business of olive oil production is fundamentally anthropocentric in nature, I am ultimately grateful for those who care for the trees and translate their magnificence in the language of taste and smell.
* Special thanks to Mr. Zuberr Hyath for sharing information with his trademark passion, and for providing the pictures.
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